and if you're on a budget -- to show that OEM are better than Replicas, or that you can refinish a vintage set on your own.
Save the Wheels assumes no responsibility for damage to person or property while refinishing wheels or driving on refinished wheels.
Wet Sanding is sanding the metal while using a lubricant (typically water) to reduce scuffing on the surface and create a more even result. You can use sand paper or sanding blocks.
Through wet sanding you can accomplish anywhere from a "brushed" finish to a decently mirrored finish. The current state of the metal surface (prior to sanding) should dictate the abrasiveness of the paper you begin with. Start with rougher sand paper, and work your way up to increasingly smoother sand paper. At the completion of each sanding stage, you should have an even surface, clear of any distinguishably deep scratches.
Polishing is the process of bringing the metal surface to a highly reflective, mirror finish. We use the term polishing and buffing interchangeably, although they are technically different processes. Most polishing is accomplished with a Buffing Wheel and Compound. The Compound is first applied to the Buffing Wheel, and then as the wheel spins against the metal surface, a shiny finish emerges. The extent of reflectiveness varies depending on the Buffing Wheel and Compound used. Polishing can also be accomplished with a vibratory polisher, which is very effective when it comes to an item with many surfaces and contoured edges, such as a mesh wheel face. The final stage of polishing involves using a liquid polish (such as Mother's, Cloud 9, or TR-3 Glaze) applied to a micofiber cloth.
forthcoming information -- all about painting and powder coating
forthcoming information -- all about wheel assembly